Cruising Norfolk: Essential guide to Britain's best kept secret coast

Azimut owner and professional photographer Simon Finlay shares the joys of cruising the Norfolk Broads and other East Coast pleasuresThe sun sets on another glorious day’s cruising on the Yare. Words and photos: Simon FinlayCan you remember the first time at sea in your own boat? For us it was a seminal moment. Behind us lay a tranquil cruise through the Norfolk Broads, two bridge lifts and a steady run past the historic quays and industrial relics of the past. Ahead loomed the dark foreboding piers of Great Yarmouth […] This article Cruising Norfolk: Essential guide to Britain's best kept secret coast appeared first on Motor Boat & Yachting.

Cruising Norfolk: Essential guide to Britain's best kept secret coast

Azimut owner and professional photographer Simon Finlay shares the joys of cruising the Norfolk Broads and other East Coast pleasures

The sun sets on another glorious day’s cruising on the Yare. Words and photos: Simon Finlay

Can you remember the first time at sea in your own boat? For us it was a seminal moment. Behind us lay a tranquil cruise through the Norfolk Broads, two bridge lifts and a steady run past the historic quays and industrial relics of the past. Ahead loomed the dark foreboding piers of Great Yarmouth and those strong protective buttresses that lead to the open sea.

This was our coastal debut, our initiation ceremony, our first taste of sea air and salt spray on board our own boat. OUR OWN BOAT. We were actually going to sea in our own boat!

As we left the sanctuary of the river and into a slight sea swell I pushed forward on the throttles of our Sealine S34 Venus. The high-pitched whine of the superchargers on our Volvo KAD32 engines kicked in, the bow raised as she climbed over her own bow wave and then, as the turbochargers took over, she started to surge ahead with real purpose and determination.

cruising-norfolk-NYACC-cruise-in-company-north-sea-credit-Simon-Finlay

The Norfolk Yacht Agency Cruising Club directs the charge out to sea

The canopies were off, a gentle breeze cascaded over the screen and I cheered out loud at the sheer joy of it all. We were at sea, at speed, in the company of our fellow Norfolk Yacht Agency cruising club members on our first big adventure!

Broadly speaking

It was a few years ago now but the memory remains as sharp as ever. We have always been based in Brundall, Norfolk but started our boating life when I returned from an overseas assignment to hear my wife say the immortal words: “Darling, I have seen a boat I really like.”

A few weeks later and we were cruising the Broads in our own Sealine S240, a great starter boat for us to cut our teeth on. A couple of years of Broads cruising later, a change up to the S34 and we were ready for our open sea debut. Having now got the taste for coastal cruising and wanting a boat that would allow us to stay on board longer and explore further we upgraded to our current boat, an Azimut 42 called Astralis.

Article continues below…


Secret South Coast cruising: Discovering the hidden gems of Sussex and Kent

Cruising around Britain in a 27ft boat: Part 2 – Ramsgate to Grimsby


I know that many South Coast and Mediterranean boaters like to dismiss the Norfolk Broads and East Coast as all brown water, muddy marshes and rental boats, but those of us who live here know better.

The Norfolk Broads can be divided into two areas: the southern side with its big skies, open vistas and fabulous wildlife, and the northern side with its sheltered broads and air-draft restricted channels, which is where most of the holiday hire boats flock. We keep to the southern side, partly due to our air draft but also because of the choice of moorings and pubs.

From Norwich to Great Yarmouth the river Yare meanders through a gentle, shallow-sided tree-lined valley, instantly dismissing the notion that Norfolk is totally flat! Next comes Bramerton, a favourite stop of ours with moorings on the common sheltered by ancient woodlands and with views across the valley.

cruising-norfolk-River-Yare-Brundall-Sealine-S43credit-Simon-Finlay

A Sealine S43 meanders its way along the River Yare at Brundall

Kingfishers and otters are part of the attraction as is the Water’s Edge pub, which has hosted us on many boating parties – mooring alongside dressed as Dracula for a Halloween party springs to mind!

From there we head downstream, often stopping at The Surlingham Ferry for great value food and good beer before passing our base at Brundall. Here the valley opens out, gradually revealing the low lying marshes with their lush summer grazing and iconic Broads wind pumps cutting into the sky. The river starts to widen as it cuts a meandering path past further pubs, inlets for private moorings and the Cantley sugar beet factory.

Just past this the Reedham Ferry pub is another great place to stop for lunch on the quay, with a good local ale while you watch cars, bikes and pedestrians being dragged across the river on the chain ferry that has been there since the 1770s.

cruising-norfolk-Reedham-chain-ferry-credit-Simon-Finlay

Passing the historic Reedham chain ferry

It’s a favourite meeting point for cruises in company before heading out to sea, where anticipation rises, drinks are downed and last year the biggest thunderstorm I have ever witnessed kept us up far longer than we should have been, but the pub stayed open!

After this comes Reedham village, another great stopping point but now there is more to consider for the skipper. The river is tidal and can run fast towards the next hurdle of the railway swing bridge, but a call on the radio will often give you the next opening time or if you’re very lucky: “I’ll open it for you now.”

The downside is that it’s an old structure that during the summer often gets stuck due to the heat, much to the annoyance of river users – strangely, it never gets stuck open so the trains can’t use it! That’s one of the reasons why in summer we travel early or late, enjoying the sight of the dawn mist rising off the low marshes.

cruising-norfolk-broads-morning-credit-Simon-Finlay

Early morning mist rises over the Broads

And then a choice, the river splits, do we turn to port and go to sea via Yarmouth or stay on the Broads and head for Lowestoft, where we can access the sea via Oulton Broad or turn down the Waveney Valley to Beccles?

Historic Yarmouth

Opt for straight ahead and it’s a very pretty cruise up river leading to the lovely market town of Beccles. The road bridge limits access for taller craft but there are moorings before it and a pleasant walk into town for provisions, food, entertainment and the pretty quay area.

Back downstream is Oulton Broad with its choice of pubs, restaurants and the lock, which gives you access to Lowestoft and the sea beyond. We like to moor up at the yacht station and, with glass in hand, watch the powerboat racing on a summer’s evening as the sun sets over the horizon and another blissful Broads day comes to an end.

cruising-norfolk-map-inset

Turn to port instead and a different adventure awaits. Past the moorings at The Burney Mill, the river suddenly opens up into a vast expanse of mudflats as far as the eye can see. The clearly marked channel picks its way east through mud beds where thousands of wading birds feed at low tide.

This is where we can start letting our hair down because unlike the rest of the Broads, there is no speed limit on Breydon Water and, with the lifting road bridge at Yarmouth tantalisingly in sight, the urge is to push forward those throttles, while still being considerate, purely to make sure all systems are working correctly, of course!

Yarmouth arrives quickly and having booked ahead with the port authority a quick radio call has us through the first bridge. Another short wait for the second bridge and we are heading past the historic quay with its restored fishing vessels and period merchants houses that once served the herring industry but now relies on gas exploration and wind farm development.

cruising-norfolk-Yarmouth-road-bridge-credit-Simon-Finlay

One of the two lifting road bridges at Great Yarmouth

With sea air filling our nostrils and urging us on, this is where our ‘other’ cruising starts. Port, starboard or straight on? Straight on lie Holland and Belgium but we are sticking to UK waters so we turn to port and head for the gem of the North Norfolk coast, Wells-next-the-Sea.

Like most of our coastal cruising grounds, it’s vitally important to time your arrival for high tide. The channel is well marked and the beach patrol should guide you in, but don’t make the mistake of following them when they run out of fuel and drift towards the beach without telling you why.

Wells is stunning with visitors’ moorings offering views for miles in one direction and a backdrop of brick and flint buildings on the other. Great pubs, shops for every need, stunning beach walks and award-winning fish and chips on the quay, looking down on your own boat as the sun sets and birds come in to roost for the night. Then it’s up early to watch the first light of day paint pinks and purples in the vast Norfolk skies, the channel filling with the tide as yachts gently swing on their moorings.

cruising-norfolk-Wells-harbour-credit-Simon-Finlay

Picturesque Wells harbour is a short hop up the coast from Yarmouth

Here you can relax on your boat all day and marvel at how many crabs are being caught by eager children and competitive dads while pondering if it’s the same 100 crabs being caught or are there thousands down there?

Back to Yarmouth and this time we turn starboard, our first port of call is Lowestoft, the historic fishing town. It has seen better days but does have the sanctuary of the Royal Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club with sheltered visitors moorings, food, a bar and all the usual facilities.

From Lowestoft we head for another East Coast gem, Southwold. Again, it’s very tide dependent, needing good planning a careful approach but it’s well worth the effort. Synonymous with wealthy weekenders, the quay is south of the town on the River Blyth about 30 mins walk away.

cruising-norfolk-Southwold-fish-and-chips-credit-Simon-Finlay

Even the fish and chip shop has a certain period charm at posh Southwold

Along its banks ancient black tarred fishing huts huddle together strewn with old nets, buoys and boats that seem to have taken root in their retirement, but between them, in another shack-like building, is an amazing fish restaurant serving that day’s catch brought in by the few local boats still plying their trade. From our mooring, we enjoy strolling along river bank to the pretty of village Walberswick.

From Southwold we head for the River Deben, past huge shingle banks, which seals and dolphins like to play between, and the imposing Napoleonic Martello towers guarding the entrance to the river leading to Bawdsey Manor, the WW2 radar station and at the end of its navigation, Woodbridge. The entrance to the Deben is particularly narrow and needs care but on summer evenings as you head into the light, it’s a beautiful cruise along a well marked channel past swinging moorings.

Tidemill Harbour is the destination, set in the ancient mill pond which fills and empties on the tide, so care is needed to clear the sill on entry. Once tied up, Woodbridge is a delightful town to enjoy with good amenities, great pubs and the station just a few yards away.

cruising-norfolk-Woodbridge-dinghy-motor-yacht-credit-Simon-Finlay

Dinghies and motoryachts mix happily at Woodbridge

South of the Deben is the Orwell with the entrance dominated by the huge container port at Felixstowe.  The Orwell is another fine river that gets prettier upstream, with stopping points at Levington, Woolverstone and once through the lock, Ipswich Marina. Revived in recent years the marina area of Ipswich is now a thoroughly pleasant place to stay.

Head further south and the mighty Thames awaits with the run up to London and St Katherine’s Dock marina set in the shadow of Tower Bridge itself.

Best of both

So there you have it, our little secret, the East Coast and the Norfolk Broads. Here, we can enjoy the best of both inland and coastal cruising.

cruising-norfolk-NYACC-cruise-in-company-credit-Simon-Finlay

The NYACC holds fun-filled cruises in company

Yes, we have brown water; yes, you need to keep a very close eye on sand banks; yes, we more often than not have holiday hire boats to negotiate. But we can also enjoy fantastic diversity, amazing views, big skies, fantastic pubs and wildlife aplenty, not to mention all the same great boating facilities as the South Coast but without the high fees and the overcrowding.

And finally our biggest secret, The Norfolk Yacht Agency Cruising Club. If ever there was one person who has encouraged us, and so many more like us, to head out to sea it is James Fraser and his fabulous team at NYA.

They organise, plan, arrange moorings, provide mechanical back up, support boats and lead from the front, allowing all of us to build the confidence and experience to head out on our own and navigate this beautiful area ourselves. And what do the NYA charge for all this expertise? Not a single penny!

First published in the August 2020 edition of Motor Boat & Yachting.

This article Cruising Norfolk: Essential guide to Britain's best kept secret coast appeared first on Motor Boat & Yachting.

Source : Mby More   

What's Your Reaction?

like
0
dislike
0
love
0
funny
0
angry
0
sad
0
wow
0

Next Article

Jeanneau NC 895 Sport Boat Test

The Jeanneau NC 895 Sport is a boat that Boating's top crew of editors sea-trialed and evaluated so that boaters-boat buyers especially-can learn the in-depth details about this boat's performance, construction and other features. Is it the right boat for you? Read on.

Jeanneau NC 895 Sport Boat Test

You don’t have to be a computer geek to know that abbreviations abound on everything from Twitter to emails (LOL), so I’m inventing one right now that will come up regularly in this test of the new Jeanneau NC 895 Sport: SFABTS. It stands for “Surprising for a Boat This Size,” and I’ll use it a lot.


LOA: 29'3" | Beam: 9'10" | Draft (max): 2'0" | Displacement (approx.): 7,275 lb. | Transom Deadrise: 18 degrees | Bridge Clearance: 8'8" | Max Cabin Headroom: 6'0"-plus | Fuel Capacity: 158 gal. | Max Horsepower: 500 | Available Power: Twin 200 or 250 hp Yamaha outboards (Courtesy Jeanneau/)

The 895 translates from meters to just over 28 feet LOA. The NC stands for New Concept, which it certainly is for those of us on this side of the Pond. (It’s called the Merry Fisher in France, but I can see all kinds of issues with that translation.) This is the Sport version with twin outboards, and a boat that will find ready acceptance whether in colder northern waters or steamy tropics, or for fishing or family outings.

You might question the word “Sport,” since the styling is “commercial fishing boat vertical” with a square pilothouse and a windscreen that slants slightly forward rather than back, but it’s the first of our SFABTS moments. It doesn’t waste dashboard, it minimizes reflections, and it keeps rain off the windshield and sun off the helm.

The dash has room for twin monitors.
The dash has room for twin monitors. (Courtesy Jeanneau/)

Yet the NC 895 Sport is one of the brightest and lightest boats I’ve been aboard recently. Start with the windshield—one piece, two wipers, big. Then there’s side windows that start low (below dinette level) and go to the overhead, and an oversize slider aft (note the single level from transom step to helm).

But there’s more. Not only is there an opening window to port, but the skipper has a big walk-through sliding door next to the helm seat, which is perfect for short-handing, or just yelling at the gas dock attendant. I loved that the door can lock partially ajar, to give the skipper a taste of breeze on hot days. And then there are two large (33-inch) sunroofs that slide independently, so you can open the 895 to feel a breeze on four sides. Should this not be enough, opt for the Westerbeke 3.5 kW generator to power enough air conditioning to get you through the steamiest summer (or stretch your winter season by months with heat). There’s a dedicated cockpit compartment to make access easy.

The dinette easily seats four.
The dinette easily seats four. (Courtesy Jeanneau/)

A word about power: Jeanneau decrees you can have only twin 200 hp or 250 hp Yamahas, which the builder has chosen for the balance of power versus speed versus economy. The choice is easy: Go for the 250s. Yamaha engineering boffins were tinkering with props during our test, but we nailed a solid 47 mph while they fooled around. SFABTS. The engines are too close together for Yamaha Helm Master joystick steering, but our test boat had the optional Quick electric bow thruster for maneuvering.

A backrest flips to become a forward-­facing companion seat.
A backrest flips to become a forward-­facing companion seat. (Courtesy Jeanneau/)

The cockpit is nothing but cool, with an aft seat that slides forward so you can tilt the outboards above water. Imagine, replacing less zincs (or even lower units). Optional folding cockpit seats around the available 2-by-4-foot table (the French love alfresco dining) don’t hinder access to the starboard swim platform with folding ladder or the 16-inch-wide side deck to the bow wraparound seating.

Like all of us, the French fret about kids around water, so the cockpit coamings are a full 36 inches high, with gates protecting the two swim platforms. A starboard side-deck door through the coaming makes boarding from the dock easy, as well as jumping ashore from the helm.

The second stateroom is tucked under the salon.
The second stateroom is tucked under the salon. (Courtesy Jeanneau/)

Inside is SFABTS. Les Francais have, in a 28-footer, achieved two private staterooms, each with a closing door and nearly 6 feet of headroom to pull on les pantolons in the morning. There is an enclosed head (same headroom) complete with shower and a folding seat over the loo.

Up in the salon, the dinette easily seats four, and a backrest flips to become a forward-facing companion seat. The galley is elegantly simple, with a single gas burner and a pressure sink on the dash in front of the companion. A 68-quart fridge is tucked under the helm seat for, at a guess, 25 Champagne bottles to toast your smarts in acquiring the 895 Sport.

The forward stateroom sports a V-berth that's 7 feet long.
The forward stateroom sports a V-berth that's 7 feet long. (Courtesy Jeanneau/)

When it comes to sleeping off the Champagne, the forward stateroom has the expected V-berth, and it’s 7 feet long to minimize tangled toes.

The second stateroom is tucked under the salon, and I’d be tempted to claim this as the owner’s cabin because it has a 55-by-78-inch rectangular berth, just a few inches shy of a queen (60-by-80). Both cabins get great light through hullside windows, and the fore cabin has a large opening port as well as a hatch.

Shopping around? Check out the 9-inch-longer Cutwater C-302 Sport Coupe with twin Yamaha 300s and more standard equipment: genset, thrusters, etc. ($304,937).

There is an enclosed head complete with shower.
There is an enclosed head complete with shower. (Courtesy Jeanneau/)

Underway, the NC 895 Sport is a SFABTS hoot, with the power of 500 snorting horses to give skiers or wakeboarders a serious ride, and enough punch so the skipper should warn, “OK, hang on everyone,” when he nails the throttles. The 895 goads you into carving some doughnuts just for the heck of it, and we sliced through fat wakes with aplomb. The skipper has, by the way, a compact but thoughtful dash, with room for twin monitors, a tidy row of illuminated rockers, and optional ZipWake trim tabs, which did an admirable job of keeping us running fast and efficiently.

Solidly built by Jeanneau and with more than 1,500 already launched in Europe, the NC 895 is truly SFABTS: Surprising for a Boat This Size.

I loved her. Je l’aime!

High Points

  • Side-door access from the helm makes short-handing a cinch; kick out the fenders, grab dock lines, and be close to the helm.
  • Outboards that tilt completely out of the water eliminate many maintenance issues, especially in salt water.
  • Great access to service points, shut-off valves and battery switches.
  • Every ounce of possible space is used for stowage lockers or hatches.

Low Points

  • One-burner stove says “let’s eat ashore,” unless you’re jonesing for soup. The builder should at least add a microwave.
  • Hanging locker should include either a bar or shelves.
  • Electronics rack atop the cabin roof for radar, antennas, spotlight, etc. is clunky.

Price: $150,185 (with base power)

Available Power: Outboard

Jeanneau NC 895 Sport Certified Test Results
Jeanneau NC 895 Sport Certified Test Results (Boating Magazine/)

How We Tested

Engines: Twin 250 hp Yamaha V-6 4.2-liter

Drive/Props: Outboard/Yamaha 15 3/4″ x 15″ Saltwater Series II stainless-steel 3-blade

Gear Ratio: 1.75:1

Fuel Load: 100 gal.

Water on Board: 10 gal.

Crew Weight: 1,300 lb.

Jeanneau - Annapolis, Maryland; 410-280-9400; jeanneauamerica.com

Source : Boating Magazine More   

This site uses cookies. By continuing to browse the site you are agreeing to our use of cookies.