Designed by Gérald Genta: The Rolex King Midas

The late legendary watch designer, Gérald Genta had plenty of hits to his name: the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Patek Philippe Nautilus, and the Cartier Pasha – just to name a few. But did you know that he had a hand in designing a Rolex watch too? The Rolex King Midas to be exact, […] The post Designed by Gérald Genta: The Rolex King Midas appeared first on Bob's Watches.

Designed by Gérald Genta: The Rolex King Midas

The late legendary watch designer, Gérald Genta had plenty of hits to his name: the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Patek Philippe Nautilus, and the Cartier Pasha – just to name a few. But did you know that he had a hand in designing a Rolex watch too? The Rolex King Midas to be exact, and in true Genta form, this is far from your traditional, run-of-the-mill design.

Let’s find out more about the rare limited-edition timepiece that both Elvis and John Wayne once owned, which ultimately found its way into the Rolex Cellini collection.

The Rolex King Midas

In 1964, Rolex introduced the heaviest gold watch on the market – aptly named after Greek mythology’s King Midas, who was famous for his ability to turn everything he touched into gold. Featuring a manually-wound movement and an unconventional silhouette comprised of an asymmetrical case with a thick integrated bracelet, the King Midas watch was carved from a single block of 18k yellow or white gold and weighed between 150 and 200 grams.

In addition to being the heaviest gold watch of its day, it was also the most expensive Rolex of its time. Just in case one might forget the name of the watch, the words “King” and “Midas” are engraved on the side of the case, flanking the saw-toothed winding crown.

Rolex King Midas Cellini Gold Watch

A Design Inspired By the Parthenon

The design of the Rolex King Midas draws its inspiration from the Parthenon temple of Athena in Greece. If you place the watch on its side with the winding crown facing up, you will see the triangular tip resembles the temple roof, while the thick bracelet grooves represent the columns. Taking design cues from objects was a signature Gérald Genta approach, as later seen in the Royal Oak (inspired by a diving helmet) and the Nautilus (inspired by a porthole on a ship).

Yet another uncommon trait of the King Midas is that it was produced as a limited edition model (unusual for Rolex), complete with engraved numbers on the back of the bracelet. The first King Midas model, the ref. 9630, was limited to 1,000 pieces, followed by the ref. 3580 in the 1970s, which was also produced in a limited series.

In contrast to the unusual case and bracelet, the dial of the Rolex King Midas is relatively classic and simple in design. At the center of the small square dial is the pair of hour and minute hands, accompanied by the Rolex crown and Greek letters spelling out the “MIDAS” name. Surprisingly for a watch from this era, the dial is protected by a sapphire crystal rather than one made from acrylic.

Rolex King Midas Gold Cellini Clasp

A Midas for A King, A Duke, and A Villain

The King Midas may not be a famous Rolex watch today, but some legendary men wore it decades ago. The most famous of them all was the King of Rock & Roll, Elvis Presley. The watch (No. 343 ) was given to Elvis after performing six shows at the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo in 1970. Today, that exact Rolex King Midas sits on display at Graceland in Memphis, Tennessee.

Additionally, Actor John Wayne also owned a Rolex King Midas (No. 557), which was sold in 2011 during the “The Personal Property of John Wayne” auction. Back then, the Duke’s Rolex sold for $26,290, which was well over three times its pre-sale estimate.

The Rolex Midas even made an appearance in a James Bond movie. During the 1974 film, The Man with the Golden Gun, the watch can be spotted on the wrist of Francisco Scaramanga – a villain played by Christopher Lee. However, it is important to point out that his Midas was a later model that belonged to the Cellini collection, rather than one of the original, limited-edition Rolex King Midas timepieces.

There is no doubt that the King Midas watch is an anomaly in Rolex’s lineup – it is astonishingly different from the other watches made by the Crown. However, that is precisely what makes the Rolex King Midas so intriguing. Designed by a watch industry legend and worn by at least two legendary entertainers, the mysterious King Midas watch story is one worth telling.

Rolex King Midas Gold Watch

Rolex King Midas Features:

The first three iterations of the King Midas (references 9630, 3580, and 4315) feature a similar design set with an asymmetrical case inspired by the Greek Parthenon and an integrated bracelet. However, Rolex eventually produced the King Midas in other configurations as part of the Cellini collection.

King Midas Bracelet:

The classic King Midas bracelet is integrated with flat links that resemble tank tracks and either a double deployant (ref. 9630 and ref. 3580) or a single fold-over clasp. The links on the very first ref. 9630 measure just under 4mm and nearly match the case’s thickness.

References 9630 and 3580 utilize the same bracelet, distinguished by their large engravings, while many references that followed feature a slightly slimmer and lighter-weight integrated bracelet. Rolex also produced iterations of the King Midas as part of the Cellini collection on leather straps, although these models do not have the “King Midas” name on them.

Rolex King Midas Integrated Bracelet Gold Cellini

King Midas Case:

Rolex introduced the King Midas with a unique, asymmetrical case in solid gold, followed by other related Cellini watches with shapes such as square, hexagonal, and even a ladies size model called the “Queen Midas.” The case itself is pretty slim, measuring less than 5mm thick, while references with ribbed cases measure about 6mm thick. Depending on the reference, the case will either be smooth, textured, ribbed, or even set with diamonds.

The first several editions of the Rolex King Midas did not have the model name engraved on the case’s side. It’s also important to note that the crown is positioned on the left side of the case as a nod to King Midas because everything he touched with his left hand turned to gold – a charming tribute, indeed.

King Midas Dial:

The dial is elegant in its simplicity, featuring hour and minute hands and minimal text. The Rolex logo is ever-present at the 12 o’clock position. The first reference 9630 features “ΜΙΔAΣ” (“Midas” in Greet letters) at 6 o’clock, which was replaced after 1972 by its successor ref. 3580 with “Cellini” (it should be noted that some collectors do not consider these later-era Cellini models to be true King Midas watches).

Rolex also added the distinction “Genève” to the dial just below the Rolex logo during this era, bringing it closer in line with the rest of the models in the Cellini collection. While most references feature plain dials, later examples also include exotic stone dials and even some encrusted with diamonds or decorated white and yellow gold stripes.

King Midas Movement:

The first Rolex King Midas ref. 9630 is powered by the outsourced 17-jewel Piaget Cal. 650. It is hand-wound and features hours and minutes only. The following model in the series, reference 3580 also utilizes the Cal. 650. However, Rolex transitioned to Cal. 651 late in its production. The Caliber 651 powered several references within the King Midas series until Rolex replaced it with the in-house Cal. 1600. Finally, in the early 1980s, the movement was upgraded to the Caliber 1601.

Rolex King Midas Gold Cellini Gold Watch Case Engraving Winding Crown

Rolex King Midas Price

The approximate retail price of the Rolex King Midas was just under $3k when it was still in production. For a solid gold watch, that original price pales in comparison to what it would retail for on today’s market. However, it’s important to note that similar solid-gold Rolex offerings produced during the same period, such as the Presidential Day-Date, retailed for about half of what Rolex originally charged for the King Midas. It was intentionally priced above the average collector’s means to be the most expensive gold watch on the market.

Coupled with the appeal of a limited production run and the title of being the heaviest gold watch on the market, the King Midas eventually became a symbol of power and success. Despite its somewhat quirky design, the King Midas was a success and eventually was commanding over $5k at retail well into the 1970s.

Today, the price of a Rolex King Midas varies significantly, depending on the reference and condition of the watch. For the later-era Cellini iterations on leather straps, prices start at around $5k. Surprisingly, the original ref. 9630 sells for as low as $11k and tops out at about $15k. For a rare Rolex limited to just 1,000 pieces, that price might come as a shock. The King Midas is still positioned as a somewhat affordable collector’s item, but it does seem to be gaining in popularity over the past several years. If you’ve had your eye on the famed Rolex King Midas, now might be the time to invest before prices start to climb.

Rolex King Midas Limited Edition Gold Watch

King Midas Reference Numbers & Prices

Reference Number  Model Name  Case Shape Strap/Bracelet Price (approx.)
9630 King Midas Asymmetrical Gold Integrated $15k
3580 King Midas Asymmetrical Gold Integrated $12k
4315 King Midas Asymmetrical Gold Integrated $15k
3581 Cellini Queen Midas Asymmetrical Gold Integrated $5k
3584 Cellini King Midas Square Gold Integrated $10k
3585 Cellini Queen Midas Square Gold Integrated $15k
4012 Cellini King Midas Ribbed Rectangle Leather $6k
4014 Cellini King Midas Rectangle Leather $5k
4015 Cellini King Midas Ribbed Asymmetrical Ribbed Integrated, Leather $6,500 – $10,000
4016 Cellini King Midas Ribbed Asymmetrical Leather $8k
4017 Cellini King Midas Asymmetrical Leather $8k
4031 Cellini King Midas Asymmetrical, Diamonds Leather $5k
4126 Cellini King Midas Hobnail Asymmetrical Gold Hobnail, Leather $6k
4127 Cellini King Midas Hobnail Rectangle Leather $5k
4151 Cellini King Midas Asymmetrical, Enamel Bezel Leather $9,500
4153 Cellini King Midas Asymmetrical, Enamel Bezel Leather $7k
4312 Cellini King Midas Square Milanese $7k
4313 Cellini Queen Midas Asymmetrical Gold Integrated $8k
4316 Cellini King Midas Square Gold Integrated $8k – $10k
4342 Cellini King Midas Hexagonal, Plain or Diamonds Gold Integrated $10k – $12k
4344 Cellini King Midas Ribbed Asymmetrical Ribbed Gold Integrated $11k
4609 Cellini King Midas Asymmetrical, Diamonds Gold Integrated $20k
4611 Cellini King Midas Square, Diamonds Gold Integrated $15k
4620 Cellini King Midas Square, Baguette Sapphires Milanese $26k – $30k
4912 Cellini King Midas Two-Tone Gold Striped Asymmetrical Leather $10k -$15k
5038 Cellini King Midas Tridor Gold Striped Asymmetrical Leather
5072 Cellini King Midas Asymmetrical Leather $5k
9903 Cellini Queen Midas Asymmetrical $5k

Rolex King Midas Yellow Gold Watch

The post Designed by Gérald Genta: The Rolex King Midas appeared first on Bob's Watches.

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4 Things You Didn’t Know About the Double Red Sea-Dweller

Diving into the history of the Double Red Sea-Dweller highlights an integral part of the Rolex heritage and underlines its steadfast commitment to producing exceptional watches by challenging the status quo. The post 4 Things You Didn’t Know About the Double Red Sea-Dweller appeared first on Bob's Watches.

4 Things You Didn’t Know About the Double Red Sea-Dweller

The Rolex Sea-Dweller is the brand’s ultra-capable professional dive watch, and the Double Red Sea-Dweller (DRSD) is one of the most coveted and collectible vintage timepieces in the world. However, while you probably know why the DRSD is famous – that ‘double red’ text – there’s also a lot you probably don’t know about this famous vintage dive watch.

Below, we are going over four key facts about the Rolex Double Red Sea-Dweller to give you more insight into the history and defining features of this iconic vintage timepiece.

Rolex Sea-Dweller 1665 – Double Red (DRSD)

Double Red Sea-Dweller Key Features:

– Production Years: 1967 – 1978 (approx.)

– Case Size: 40mm

– Materials: Stainless Steel

– Functions: Time w/ Running Seconds, Date Display, Helium Escape Valve

– Dial: Black w/ Luminous Hour Markers

– Bezel: Bidirectional, Black Aluminum Insert w/ 60-Minute Scale

– Crystal: Acrylic (Domed)

– Movement: Rolex Caliber 1575

– Water Resistance: 610 Meters / 2,000 Feet

– Strap/Bracelet: Oyster Bracelet

Click here for our Ultimate Buying Guide on the Rolex Sea-Dweller.

Rolex Double Red Sea-Dweller DRSD 1665

1. The Rolex Sea-Dweller was developed from a collaboration

As the age-old adage goes, “necessity is the mother of inventions” – and that is absolutely the case with the Rolex Sea-Dweller. In the 1960s, Rolex had a special relationship with the leading commercial diving company of the time, COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises).

It was COMEX that requested Rolex to create an enhanced diving watch that was not only capable of reaching great depths but also capable of depressurizing and returning safely back to the surface. Rolex fulfilled the request and produced a batch of special watches for the divers that would serve as the precursors for the Sea-Dweller collection.

Rolex Double Red Sea-Dweller Reference 1665 DRSD Tropical Dial

2. The Rolex Sea-Dweller was a souped-up version of the Submariner

The specially created watches for COMEX were actually Rolex Submariner ref. 5513 diving timepieces customized with Rolex’s patented Helium Escape Valve – a groundbreaking mechanism that allowed the trapped helium gases to be released from the case during decompression before the built-up pressure cold risk damaging the watch. The success of the modified diving watches led to the 1967 launch of the new Rolex Sea-Dweller collection in the form of the reference 1665.

When it was released, the Rolex Sea-Dweller 1665 featured the Helium Escape Valve, a thicker domed crystal without a Cyclops lens, a thicker case, and a new dial with the words “Sea-Dweller” and “Submariner 2000” written on two separate lines in red letters. It is these two lines of red writing that gave the piece its nickname, the Double Red Sea-Dweller, or DRSD for short. As clearly indicated on the dial, the new Rolex Sea-Dweller could safely reach the incredible depth of 2000 feet, making it the watch of choice for deep-sea explorers.

Double Red Sea-Dweller Rolex 1665 DRSD Caseback Engraving

3. The Sea-Dweller is one of the few Rolex watches with engravings on the caseback

Guides to buying pre-owned Rolex watches dictate to avoid those timepieces with engravings on the caseback. Why?  Because that’s normally an indication of a counterfeit product since the brand does not typically engrave the casebacks of its watches. However, the Double Red Sea-Dweller is one of the exceptions to that rule.

On the casebacks of DRSD watches are several engravings – the Rolex logo, the words “Gas Escape Valve,” “Rolex Patent” (on early versions of the watch it was written as “Patent Pending”), and “Oyster”. Some models have the Rolex logo etched across the casebacks, while other versions have the logo engraved around the circumference.

Double Red Sea-Dweller DRSD Rolex 1665

4. There are 4 Dial Variations for the Rolex Double Red Sea-Dweller DRSD

The Rolex Double Red Sea-Dweller was produced for approximately a decade from 1967 until 1978 (with some print catalogs depicting the watch as late as 1979). During that time, several dials were created and are known by collectors as Mark I, Mark II, Mark III, and Mark IV with their rarity ranking in descending order. With that in mind, all variations are highly coveted collectibles. Below, we’re outlining the key differences between each dial variation of the DRSD.

DRSD MK I Dial: 1967

The Mark I dial featured white writing applied to the black dial with red paint on top. Both lines of red text are similar in terms of font and size, and they say the words ‘SEA-DWELLER’ and ‘SUBMARINER 2000.’

Another key feature of the DRSD MK1 dial is the coronet, which is quite sharp with 5 tips of the crown and a well-defined oval at the base. Many of these early MK1 dials are faded, with the red now appearing pink, white, and sometimes even yellow. If the dials are faded you may also see these MK 1’s referred to as ‘Double Pink’ or ‘Double Yellow’ dials.

Rolex Double Red Sea-Dweller Ref 1665 DRSD Dial

DRSD MK II Dial: 1967-1970

The Mark II dial features red writing directly on the black dial, with the red lettering appearing vibrantly. On the DRSD MK II dial, both lines of text are also different sizes, the second line (‘SUBMARINER 2000’) being smaller. You’ll also notice that the coronet spikes are not as clear on the MK II, and the oval at the base is smaller and harder to distinguish. Some of the MK II dials have also faded over the years, the matte black dial turning a chocolate brown color that is now highly collectible.

DRSD MK III Dial: 1970-1973

Double Red Sea-Dweller Mark III dials also feature red writing directly on the black dial, but they appear darker and less vibrant than the previous Mark II dials. Even the white writing on the dial is less vibrant. Again, the second line that reads ‘SUBMARINER 2000’ is also written in a slightly smaller text. However, the coronet is much more distinguished on the Mark III and the oval base is also clearly defined again.

DRSD MK IV Dial: 1974-1977

The final and most common DRSD dial is the MK IV, which has its double red writing written directly on the black dial, with the color appearing a bit brighter than the MK III but still less intense than the MK II. Once again, the second line of text reads ‘SUBMARINER 2000’ and is smaller than the ‘SEA-DWELLER’ text above it. What also sets this dial apart is the coronet which is clearly defined (as is its oval at the base), but the text isn’t quite as sharp.

Diving into the history of the Double Red Sea-Dweller highlights an integral part of the Rolex heritage and underlines the brand’s steadfast commitment to producing exceptional watches that are capable of thriving in the most extreme and challenging environments in the world.

Double Red Sea-Dweller Rolex 1665 DRSD

The post 4 Things You Didn’t Know About the Double Red Sea-Dweller appeared first on Bob's Watches.

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