Mercury Racing, E1 Series, Develop Electric Competition Outboard

Mercury Racing and E1 Series collaborate on the development of a new electric outboard motor designed for racing. The intended use is the soon-to-be E1 series, where electric-powered hydrofoils will race on a closed course.

Mercury Racing, E1 Series, Develop Electric Competition Outboard

This full scale model of the Racebird was just unveiled by E1 Series. (Courtesy E1 Series/)

Mercury Racing today announced a partnership with the E1 Series to support the development of an electric powertrain for use in a future E1 Series powerboat racing championship. Mercury Racing joins the E1 Series as Official Propulsion and Propeller Partner. The E1 Series plans to begin racing in early 2023 with up to 12 teams set to race on a tight, technical course. Monaco has been confirmed as one of the host venues for the inaugural season of E1 Series with additional destinations to be announced soon.

“Mercury Racing is excited to contribute to this challenge, and looks forward to joining the E1 Series, SeaBird Technologies and Victory Marine in the development of high-performance electric powertrain components,” said Stuart Halley, Mercury Racing General Manager. “Sustainable technology is already playing an important role in the future of marine motorsports, and we anticipate a successful partnership with the three organizations and the products that will result from our combined efforts.”

The E1 Series partnership is designed to create the world’s first Union Internationale Motonautique (UIM) sanctioned electric powerboat racing championship, with competition held close to shore in urban areas. Today E1 revealed a full-size prototype of the RaceBird, a hydrofoil-type boat now under development for use in the series.

Read Next: An Electric Boat Speed Record

The RaceBird was designed by SeaBird Technologies and Victory Marine and features an electric outboard motor, enclosed safety canopy and hydrofoil technology. The boats will be powered by a 35kWh battery from Kreisel and a motor with 150 kW peak power output, with a projected top speed of 58 MPH. Using innovative hydrofoil technology, the RaceBird powerboats will rise high above the water’s surface, allowing for minimum drag and maximum energy efficiency. The boats will be manufactured by Victory Marine.

About Mercury Racing

Based in Fond du Lac, Wis., Mercury Racing, a division of Mercury Marine, is a leading provider of high-performance marine propulsion systems for discriminating boaters worldwide, offering an exciting and fulfilling power boating experience on the water. Using leading-edge technology, Mercury Racing produces high-performance outboards, sterndrives, propellers, parts and accessories. Mercury Marine is a division of Brunswick Corp. (NYSE: BC), the world’s largest manufacturer of pleasure boats, marine engines, and accessories.

Source : Boating Magazine More   

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How to Repin Marine Electrical Connectors

A step-by-step guide to repinning your boat's marine electrical connectors

How to Repin Marine Electrical Connectors

When small terminal pins in electrical connectors break or corrode, you can fix them. (Tim Barker/)

Most marine-engine harnesses and many electrical accessory wires now come equipped with plug-and-play connectors that help make short work of rigging jobs. These connectors easily snap together or into an electrical port. They can just as easily disconnect by pressing on a small tab to release the snap-lock.

Connectors from companies such as AMP, Bosch, Deutsch, Furukawa, Sumitomo and Yazaki contain multiple terminal pins—female terminals on one-half of the connector, with corresponding male pins on the other half—that are connected to wires and retained within impact-resistant, nonconductive plastic housings. Rubber seals at the wire/pin connection and on the mating surface of the connector help prevent water intrusion and keep corrosion at bay. These connectors are also designed to minimize electrical resistance, which can prove critical in digital applications.

However, sealed connectors are not fool-proof. Wire insulations can chafe and corrode. And in extremely damp conditions, moisture can eventually seep inside the connectors and corrode the terminal pins. If this occurs, you can replace the damaged pins inside the connector, saving the expense and trouble of buying and installing an entirely new harness.

Repinning a connector is an easy job once you have the right terminal pins, wire seals and tools, though it requires patience, good lighting and perhaps a magnifying glass. Here’s how we proceeded after discovering corroded pins inside the female side of a Sumitomo DL 090-series 16-pin sealed connector on the main electrical harness of a Suzuki DF200AP outboard engine.

Skill Level: 2 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 15 minutes per terminal pin

Tools and Supplies

  • Terminal pins ($0.24 each for DL 090-series female, $0.19 each for DL 090 male,
  • Rubber wire seals ($0.17 each for DL 090-series for 18 to 22 AWG wire,
  • Terminal extractor tool ($7.85,
  • Terminal pin crimping tool ($33.95,
  • Wire cutters/strippers
  • Magnifying glass
Matching Pins and Seals
Matching Pins and Seals (Tim Barker/)

There are myriad sealed connectors using different styles of plastic housings, terminal pins and rubber wire seals. To find the right items, ask your boat dealer, who might order them for you. In our case, we searched online and found By perusing the photos on the website, we found the same two-part connector, as well as the male and female terminal pins and rubber seals that fit the 18 AWG wire on the electrical harness. Within four days, the parts arrived, and we were almost ready to proceed.

The Correct Tools
The Correct Tools (Tim Barker/)

In order to move ahead, you will also need a couple of comparatively inexpensive tools to repin a connector. One is a terminal extraction tool, a narrow flat blade that inserts inside the small terminal hole and lifts the tiny plastic tab that snaps over the pin to hold it in place. We ordered’s ET120 for this. The other tool is a special crimper with B-shaped dies for the bare wire crimps. We ordered the ECT47 to crimp the pins to the exposed wire and crimp the rubber seal to the wire insulation.

Tip: Before creating a final crimp, it pays to get some spare wire (the same size as the harness wire) and a few extra terminal pins and wire seals to practice and perfect your crimping technique.

Pin Removal
Pin Removal (Tim Barker/)

With the two-piece connector snapped apart, use a pair of needle-nose pliers to gently pull out the white plastic secondary retainer inside the plastic female connector housing. This will give you access to the terminal pins within the connector. Insert the terminal extraction tool blade between the affected pin and the small plastic tab holding it in place. Apply gentle lifting pressure to the tab while carefully pulling out the corresponding wire from the back of the connector. It might help to have a friend pull on the wire while you lift the tab.

Read Next: 14 Tips for Avoiding Electrical Problems

New Pin and Seal
New Pin and Seal (Tim Barker/)

If practical, pry away the old crimp to avoid cutting the wire. Inspect the wire for corrosion and fraying. If needed, cut the wire and strip the insulation to expose 5 to 6 mm of bare wire for the new pin. Slide the seal over the wire insulation with the more slender collar toward the bitter end, where it will be crimped in place. The DL 090 pins require a two-step crimp on the bare wire using a 1.25 mm die for a pre-crimp and a 0.5 mm die for the finish crimp. A third 2.5 mm round die is for crimping the seal’s collar to the wire insulation.

Tip: Take note of the orientation of the terminal pin as you pull it out from the back of the connector. This will help ensure that when you insert the new pin, it will be right-side up. Also note if it’s a male or female version, and replace with a like terminal pin.

Insert the New Pin
Insert the New Pin (Tim Barker/)

Gently insert the new terminal pin through the same hole in the back of the connector that the old terminal pin previously occupied. Make sure the pin is in the correct orientation because the top and bottom of the terminal pins are different. Carefully push with your fingers behind the rubber seal while listening attentively for a click inside the connector, indicating that the pin has seated properly. Visually check inside the connector to confirm the correct positioning of the pin. Once finished, snap the plastic secondary retainer back in place.

Source : Boating Magazine More   

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