Tamiya TBLE-04S esc speed controller Review and Guide

There is a new release from Tamiya that is one of the most important. The kit included ESC has been upgraded from the TBLE-02S to the New TBLE-04S. This is a guide on how to use it, and also a small review to see how it runs, and will it offer anything more than its successor..SpecificationsThis ESC is designed for use with Brushless Motors (Sensored), and also brushed motors 25T and over. High point, neutral brake and brake settings are individually adjustable, while battery cut-off, reverse and motor modes can be selected. Setup is shown by an LED, and the ESC also features two protection functions.SizeThe TBLE-04S has only a marginally smaller footprint than it's predecessor, coming in at 41.5 x 33.4mm. This shaves a minimal 0.5mm off the footprint. In the height department things are much different with the new ESC being very low profile at only 18mm, 7mm lower than the old unit. WeightTBLE-02S = 51.8gTBLE-04S = 47g A nice 5g weight saving.Setting up.The esc is able to be used on both brushed and brushless motors. Out of the box the esc is in the default brushed motor configuration. Brushed motor installation When installing the esc into your car, you will only use two of the three motor wires. As shown above the blue wire goes to the minus terminal on the brushed motor (This is usually a green wire on the Tamiya Torque Tuned motor that comes in the kit), and the yellow wire goes to the positive terminal on the motor. (This is usually yellow on the Tamiya Torque tuned motor).  Brushless motor installationThe Tamiya esc is able to be used on their own sensored motors. It also is able to work on many other makes of motor. I would suggest to limit the motor to 17.5 turns, although I do know of others that are successfully running 13.5motors with the esc.  It must also be remembered that many top-spec race motors are much more powerful than the Tamiya motors so they may cause problems.When wiring the brushless motor you need to plug in the sensor cable (Note any sensor cable will work).  You then need to attach the wires to the three connectors on the brushless motor. Blue goes to Brushless motor connector AYellow goes to Brushless motor connector BOrange goes to Brushless motor connector CHow to programThe esc is programable and most of the functions are programmed in the same fashion as the earlier TL02-S. Everything is programmed via the set-button. The TBLE-04S button is easy to press. You just slide in a small hex driver (Or the kit included Allen key that is used for the pinion grub screw). Slide it in and just press down gently to press the button.Once you press the set button the LED on the TBLE-04S will colour cycle through  RED, GREEN and ORANGE. You just release the set-key when the LED is at the colour that shows the function you want to program. Settings availableAs you can see there are six functions that you can change. The top three you adjust by pressing the setting button when the esc is already switched on. 1: THROTTLE HIGH/LOW The TBLE-04S base throttle setting seems to work with most transmitters. However if you want to set it yourself. Just make sure the transmitter is switched on and you have any throttle expo etc removed. With the throttle at neutral, press the set button and release it when the LED is red. This will set the neutral instantly (Flashing red LED). Move the throttle stick (Trigger) to full throttle press the button again to set the highpoint (Double flash Red). Then move the stick (Trigger) to full brake and press the set button to set the brake point. (LED will switch off).2: DRAG BRAKE SETTINGSThis mode is only available if you are running brushless motors. A drag brake will add resistance to the drive train when you release the throttle to neutral. This simulates the effect of brushed motors, but is much more tuneable. The default setting is 5% which is fine as a starting setting. I usually run 0% as I like to really only use brake to slow down the car, but it can be helpful on tight technical circuits.  To set this you press the setting button and release it when it's GREEN. It will then flash GREEN. Just count the amounts of flashes and that is the current setting. So if it flashes twice it will be at 5%. Three times 10% etc. To adjust it you just press the setting button to increment the value. It will loop back to setting one if you go above ten. 3: BRAKE SETTINGSThis mode is only available if running brushless. This is simply the brake strength. The default is 100% and it really isn't worth changing this. To set this you press the setting button and release it when it's ORANGE. It will then flash ORANGE. Just count the amounts of flashes and that is the current setting. So if it flashes twice it will be at 60%. Three times 65% etc. To adjust it you just press the setting button to increment the value. It will loop back to setting one if you go above ten.These bottom three settings are selected by pressing the select button and then switching on the esc and choos

Tamiya TBLE-04S esc speed controller Review and Guide
There is a new release from Tamiya that is one of the most important. The kit included ESC has been upgraded from the TBLE-02S to the New TBLE-04S. This is a guide on how to use it, and also a small review to see how it runs, and will it offer anything more than its successor..

Specifications

This ESC is designed for use with Brushless Motors (Sensored), and also brushed motors 25T and over. High point, neutral brake and brake settings are individually adjustable, while battery cut-off, reverse and motor modes can be selected. Setup is shown by an LED, and the ESC also features two protection functions.

Size

The TBLE-04S has only a marginally smaller footprint than it's predecessor, coming in at 41.5 x 33.4mm. This shaves a minimal 0.5mm off the footprint. In the height department things are much different with the new ESC being very low profile at only 18mm, 7mm lower than the old unit. 

Weight

  • TBLE-02S = 51.8g
  • TBLE-04S = 47g 
A nice 5g weight saving.

Setting up.

The esc is able to be used on both brushed and brushless motors. Out of the box the esc is in the default brushed motor configuration. 

Brushed motor installation 


When installing the esc into your car, you will only use two of the three motor wires. As shown above the blue wire goes to the minus terminal on the brushed motor (This is usually a green wire on the Tamiya Torque Tuned motor that comes in the kit), and the yellow wire goes to the positive terminal on the motor. (This is usually yellow on the Tamiya Torque tuned motor).  

Brushless motor installation

The Tamiya esc is able to be used on their own sensored motors. It also is able to work on many other makes of motor. I would suggest to limit the motor to 17.5 turns, although I do know of others that are successfully running 13.5motors with the esc.  It must also be remembered that many top-spec race motors are much more powerful than the Tamiya motors so they may cause problems.

When wiring the brushless motor you need to plug in the sensor cable (Note any sensor cable will work).  You then need to attach the wires to the three connectors on the brushless motor. 

  • Blue goes to Brushless motor connector A
  • Yellow goes to Brushless motor connector B
  • Orange goes to Brushless motor connector C

How to program

The esc is programable and most of the functions are programmed in the same fashion as the earlier TL02-S. 

Everything is programmed via the set-button. The TBLE-04S button is easy to press. You just slide in a small hex driver (Or the kit included Allen key that is used for the pinion grub screw). Slide it in and just press down gently to press the button.
Once you press the set button the LED on the TBLE-04S will colour cycle through  RED, GREEN and ORANGE. You just release the set-key when the LED is at the colour that shows the function you want to program. 

Settings available

As you can see there are six functions that you can change. The top three you adjust by pressing the setting button when the esc is already switched on. 

1: THROTTLE HIGH/LOW 


The TBLE-04S base throttle setting seems to work with most transmitters. However if you want to set it yourself. Just make sure the transmitter is switched on and you have any throttle expo etc removed. With the throttle at neutral, press the set button and release it when the LED is red. This will set the neutral instantly (Flashing red LED). Move the throttle stick (Trigger) to full throttle press the button again to set the highpoint (Double flash Red). Then move the stick (Trigger) to full brake and press the set button to set the brake point. (LED will switch off).

2: DRAG BRAKE SETTINGS



This mode is only available if you are running brushless motors. A drag brake will add resistance to the drive train when you release the throttle to neutral. This simulates the effect of brushed motors, but is much more tuneable. The default setting is 5% which is fine as a starting setting. I usually run 0% as I like to really only use brake to slow down the car, but it can be helpful on tight technical circuits.  

To set this you press the setting button and release it when it's GREEN. It will then flash GREEN. Just count the amounts of flashes and that is the current setting. So if it flashes twice it will be at 5%. Three times 10% etc. To adjust it you just press the setting button to increment the value. It will loop back to setting one if you go above ten. 

3: BRAKE SETTINGS



This mode is only available if running brushless. This is simply the brake strength. The default is 100% and it really isn't worth changing this. 

To set this you press the setting button and release it when it's ORANGE. It will then flash ORANGE. Just count the amounts of flashes and that is the current setting. So if it flashes twice it will be at 60%. Three times 65% etc. To adjust it you just press the setting button to increment the value. It will loop back to setting one if you go above ten.

These bottom three settings are selected by pressing the select button and then switching on the esc and choosing the right colour. 

4: REVERSE ON/OFF



If you need to switch off the reverse for a race, then select Reverse on/off by releasing the set button when the LED is RED. This will allow you to toggle the Reverse setting. Releasing the button will automatically toggle the setting. So if the reverse was on, it will automatically switch off. To switch it on, you just do the same process and it will toggle back to on. 

5: BATTERY CUT-OFF LOW/HIGH



This is the most exciting update on the specification. The old TBLE02-S only has a life cut-off. The new TBLE-04S has a high cut-off. The value isn't given but I have tested it and it is 6.2V so it is LIPO Safe. (See the review below).  

To toggle between these settings you need to release the set button when the LED is GREEN. This will allow you to toggle between the high and low setting. Releasing the button will automatically toggle the setting. So if the setting was LOW it will automatically switch to HIGH and vice versa. 

6: MOTOR MODE

Here you can just swap between Brushed and Brushless motors. 

To toggle between these settings you need to release the set button when the LED is ORANGE. This will allow you to toggle between Brushed and Brushless motor settings. Releasing the button will automatically toggle the setting. So if the setting was BRUSHED it will automatically switch to BRUSHLESS and vice versa.


ESC Status

Once switched on the ESC will show what settings it is currently in with a series of LED flashes and Beeps. 

The above shows the status. of the esc when it is running.

Cooling

The new TBLE-04S has a larger surface area for the heat-sink to ensure that it will run at a cooler temperature. 

It also comes with two mounts so you can fit a 25mm fan on top to increase the amount of cooling for the esc. I mounted an old Speed passion fan onto the TBLE-02S. You will need to power the fan via a receiver or attach it to the battery wires to power it. This is a nice addition to the TBLE-04S. 25mm fans are really cheap to buy and you do not need any special mounting hardware. 

TRACK TEST

I was interested in seeing how the new TBLE-04S would feel compared to the previous esc, and I was also very keen to try out the high cut-off mode to see if it would work with a lipo.  

The Tamiya literature  that comes with the esc comes with a nice red sheet of 'Bad things' that you should not do with the esc, and the first thing it shows is that you should not use lipo batteries.. However this is because Tamiya does not officially support Lipo batteries, they want people to run the more safe LIFE batteries. As we do not use these in the west, I'm testing a LIPO and hoping that the new cut-off set to (High) will work.

The ESC was placed in a std(ish) TT02, replacing the TBLE-02S that was already installed. The first thing I noticed was that the throttle response felt very smooth. I felt more in control with this esc and was able to exhibit more finesse with throttle inputs into the corner. 

The brakes also felt more sharp. A lot of the issue with brakes when running a brushed motor is down to the actual motor itself. However like for like the brakes were stronger. 

Combining the better throttle response and sharper brakes make the TT02 even more fun to drive. Sliding around in the dirty part of the carpark did feel more controlled and I had no problem spending the 40 or so minutes bashing around with the car waiting for the low voltage cut-off to kick in. 

After a while the car slowed down thanks to the battery cut-off. I disconnected the battery and went home to see what voltage was remaining in the Lipo battery. 

LIPO FRIENDLY?

RESULT! as you can see the High-Battery cut-off is set to 6.2v. This is great news. It looks to be safe to run this esc with a lipo if you set the cut-off to the HIGH value. From a racing perspective this will not make much of a difference as people will never run that low, but from a bashing perspective this will give you the confidence to run your car with a lipo. 

WARNING - I have reviewed this and have shown the voltage that the lipo's ended up with. However Lipo batteries always need to be carefully monitored. Running any battery low will have a risk. You always do this at your own risk. Also I am not sure on how it monitors the value (per cell or overall). If that is the case then if a Lipo is badly balanced it could end up at 6.2v with one cell below 3V. 

Next up I fixed a brushless motor to the esc. I attached a Muchmore Fleta V1 17.5 to the esc and ran that in the chassis. The TBLE-04 like the older TBLE-02S is even better when running brushless. The throttle response and brakes were all very good for a £20 esc. It's not going to replace my top-end race esc but there was zero cogging with the motor and the throttle range was really good.  Again I ran the pack to cut-off and the final voltage was in the 6.2v range. 

Set-up summary

Here is the overview on how to set-up the esc. The yellow colours show the default settings of the TBLE04S when you get one in your Tamiya kit.

Overall

The TBLE-04S is a great update to the std Tamiya Kit esc. It's easy to program, easy to cool with a std 25mm fan and it has a new cut-off setting that looks to make it safe to run lipos. 

For a kit included esc its great, you do have to be mindful that it is not water-proof although I might try to rectify that in the future. 

Alongside the better battery cut-off, it also feels more responsive and makes the driving experience more enjoyable, which is only a good thing. It also allows you to easily move into the world of brushless motors when you want more speed and longer runtimes. 

So a great update from Tamiya, and I look forward to pushing this esc more with a 13.5 and seeing if it can manage it. 


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Vintage Rolex Sports Models – 5 Important Models

As there's so much interest in the topic, in the next coming weeks, we will be delving into five key vintage Rolex sports models. We'll take a close look at the history, significance, and popularity of the following vintage Rolex sports watches: ref. 1675, ref. 1680, ref. 5512, and ref. 6262, and ref. 6239. The post Vintage Rolex Sports Models – 5 Important Models appeared first on Bob's Watches.

Vintage Rolex Sports Models – 5 Important Models

Vintage Rolex watches are among the most desirable and collectible in the entire world. However, not all vintage Rolex watches are created equal, and there are a few models that seem to consistently be near the top of every collector’s wish list.

By their definition, these vintage watches are no longer in production and the total number in existence will always be decreasing. Additionally, many vintage Rolex watches can be found with a range of variations, and it is often the case that two examples of the same reference will likely have slightly different dials, hands, bezels, and cases. Below, we’re taking a closer look at the history, significance, and defining features of five important vintage Rolex sports models – the Rolex GMT-Master 1675, Submariner 5512, Submariner Date 1680, Daytona 6262, and the ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona 6239.

Click here for a closer look at some of the most affordable vintage Rolex watches.

1. Rolex Submariner Date Reference 1680

Submariner 1680 Key Features:

– Production Years: 1969 – 1980 (approx)

– Case Diameter: 40mm

– Materials: Stainless Steel; 18k Yellow Gold

– Functions: Time w/ Running Seconds, Date Display

– Dial: Black or Blue w/ Luminous Hour Markers

– Bezel: Bidirectional, Black Aluminum Insert w/ 60-Minute Scale

– Crystal: Acrylic (Box Shaped w/ Cyclops Lens)

– Movement: Rolex Caliber 1575

– Water Resistance: 200 Meters / 660 Feet

– Strap/Bracelet: Oyster Bracelet

– Price Range: $12,000 – $628,572 (Unique White Gold Prototype)

The vintage Rolex Submariner Date ref. 1680 made its debut in 1969 and was available until about 1979. The ref. 1680 is particularly important in Rolex Submariner history, as it was the first to offer a date window – a major turning point in the collection’s history. One of the most notable features of the ref. 1680 is only found on early examples – the ‘Submariner’ name appears in red letters rather than all-white text. Due to the rarity of these so-called ‘Red Sub’ watches, they are now highly sought out by collectors.

While collectors typically clamor over the opportunity to own a ‘Red Sub’ from the first half of the model’s production, the entire reference 1680 range is incredibly collectible due to all of its various dial variations over the years. In fact, there were so many dials made during its run that collectors named all of them to help distinguish them (Mark I through Mark VII). There’s even sub-category ‘Marks’ for the Mark VII and VIII to help further distinguish the white-text examples of these Submariner watches.

2. Rolex GMT-Master Reference 1675

Vintage Rolex GMT-Master 1675 Pepsi Jubilee

GMT-Master 1675 Key Features:

– Production Years: 1959 – 1980 (approx.)

– Case Diameter: 40mm

– Materials: Stainless Steel; Yellow Gold; Rolesor (two-tone steel and gold)

– Functions: Time w/ Running seconds, Date Display, GMT Functionality

– Dial: Black or Brown w/ Luminous Hour Markers

– Bezel: Bidirectional, Aluminum Insert w/ 24-Hour Scale

– Bezel Colors: Blue/Red (“Pepsi”); Brown/Yellow (“Root Beer”); Brown; Black

– Crystal: Acrylic (Box Shaped w/ Cyclops Lens)

– Movement: Rolex Caliber 1565 or Caliber 1575

– Water Resistance: 50 Meters / 165 Feet

– Strap/Bracelet: Oyster Bracelet; Jubilee Bracelet; Leather Strap

– Price Range: $12,000 to $1.95 Million (Marlon Brando’s ref. 1675)

The vintage Rolex GMT-Master 1675 was one of the collection’s longest-running models of all time – manufactured for more than two decades from approximately 1959 to 1980. Naturally, during that long 21-year run, several modifications and updates were made to the ref. 1675, including some that are still present on contemporary GMT-Master II models.

When the reference 1675 replaced the original GMT-Master ref. 6542, Rolex’s pilot’s watch got serious upgrades like a larger 40mm case, crown guards, and an updated bezel with an aluminum insert. Throughout the years, several important updates were made to the ref. 1675 including crown guard shape changes, dial redesigns, movement improvements, and new bezel colorways. Because of all these improvements and iterations over the years, the GMT-Master ref. 1675 is one of the most collectible vintage Rolex sports watches and examples occupy a wide range of variations.

3. Rolex Submariner Reference 5512

Vintage Rolex Submariner 5512 Matte Dial

Submariner 5512 Key Features:

– Production Years: 1959 – 1979 (approx.)

– Case Diameter: 40mm

– Materials: Stainless Steel

– Functions: Time w/ Running Seconds

– Dial: Black w/ Luminous Hour Markers

– Bezel: Bidirectional, Black Aluminum Insert w/ 60-Minute Scale

– Crystal: Acrylic (Domed)

– Movement: Rolex Caliber 1530, Caliber 1560, or Caliber 1570

– Water Resistance: 200 Meters / 660 Feet

– Strap/Bracelet: Oyster Bracelet

– Price Range: $17,000 – $234,000 (Steve McQueen’s ref. 5512)

The vintage Rolex Submariner 5512 is a no-date Submariner that was manufactured for approximately 20-years from 1959 until 1979. The introduction of the ref. 5512 is especially noteworthy for introducing crown guards and a larger 40mm case to the Submariner collection. Early crown guards of the reference 5512 were square-shaped, but these turned out to restrict access to the crown too much, causing Rolex to eventually modify them. Additionally, unlike the reference 5513, most Submariner 5512 watches have four lines of text on their dials due to having COSC certified movements.

Depending on the year of production, there are three distinct types of crown guards found on the Submariner ref. 5512. The square shape of the guards on the very first wave of the Submariner 5512. Rolex then switched to pointed crown guards, and then finally to a more rounded shape. Because there are so few of the square crown guards, these ref. 5512 watches tend to trade hands for significantly higher prices that can reach into the six-figure territory.

4. Rolex Daytona Reference 6262

Vintage Rolex Daytona 6262 Black Dial

Daytona 6262 Key Features:

– Production Years: 1970 – 1971 (approx.)

– Case Diameter: 37mm

– Materials: Stainless Steel or Yellow Gold

– Functions: Time w/ Running Seconds, 12-Hour Chronograph

– Dial: Black; Silver; Champagne; or Exotic ‘Paul Newman’

– Bezel: Fixed, Stainless Steel or Yellow Gold w/ Tachymeter Scale

– Crystal: Acrylic (Box Shaped)

– Movement: Valjoux 727

– Water Resistance: Pump-style Pushers (Limited Water Resistance)

– Strap/Bracelet: Oyster Bracelet; Jubilee Bracelet; Leather Strap

– Price Range: $60,000 – $475,630 (Yellow Gold 6262)

Considered a transitional model and only manufactured for a very short period of time, the Rolex Daytona 6262 chronograph is one of the rarest vintage Daytona references. Rolex only made the ref, 6262 for about one year in 1970, so its availability in today’s vintage market is incredibly sparse. Launched after the ref. 6239, the reference 6262 has the upgraded Valjoux 727 movement but is aesthetically similar to the reference 6239 and also features pump-style pushers and a metal tachymeter bezel.

The Rolex Daytona reference 6262 is also interesting due to all its dial variations given its incredibly short production period. Like the ref. 6239, the reference 6262 was available with either black or silver dials, along with exotic ‘Paul Newman’ dials, and the yellow gold editions were also available with champagne-colored dials. Racing legend Bobby Unser even wore a reference 6262 Daytona fitted with a black dial. The vintage Rolex Daytona 6262 is an incredibly fun reference to hunt down (albeit, rather difficult). However, if you do manage to get your hands on one, it’s a piece you’ll cherish forever knowing just how few are out there.

5. Rolex ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona Reference 6239

Vintage Rolex Paul Newman Daytona 6239

Paul Newman Daytona 6239 Key Features:

– Production Years: 1963 – 1970 (approx.)

– Case Diameter: 37mm

– Materials: Stainless Steel or Yellow Gold

– Functions: Time w/ Running Seconds, 12-Hour Chronograph

– Dial: Exotic ‘Paul Newman’ (Black; White; Champagne)

– Bezel: Fixed; Stainless Steel or Yellow Gold w/ Tachymeter Scale

– Crystal: Acrylic (Box Shaped)

– Movement: Valjoux 722

– Water Resistance: Pump-style Pushers (Limited Water Resistance)

– Strap/Bracelet: Oyster Bracelet; Jubilee Bracelet; Leather Strap

– Price Range: $60,000 – $17.8 million (Paul Newman’s 6239)

In the 1960s, Rolex offered special Art Deco-inspired dials classified as “exotic dials” for its Daytona chronograph. At first, these dials were incredibly unpopular and some owners even went so far as to have them replaced with standard dials during routine repairs or servicing. Hollywood actor and racing legend owned one of these exotic dial Daytona watches and once the link between Paul Newman and these exotic dial Daytona watches was established, their popularity started to climb. Today, the ‘Paul Newman Daytona’ is easily the most coveted vintage Rolex watch money can buy.

Incredibly rare and popular, these Art Deco style dials set the Paul Newman apart from any other Rolex Daytona. So what do you look out for? Those beautiful Art Deco numerals on the chronograph registers. Stainless steel examples of the reference 6239 Paul Newman Daytona have either a black dial with white registers or a white dial with black registers, although the specific example worn by Paul Newman was a ref. 6239 with a white dial that he famously wore on a leather strap.

The post Vintage Rolex Sports Models – 5 Important Models appeared first on Bob's Watches.

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